soup

Cioppino - One Version

Here is an awesome fish stew especially if you love those tomato-based broth ones. A loaf of crusty bread to sop up the broth is really recommended. I have made many versions over the years but this one that is an offshoot of Ina Garten’s, works well. It really comes down to the stock here. This works well for 6 people.

1) Heat 1/4c. of olive oil in a large pot over low to medium heat. Add 2 C. of chopped fennel and 1 1/2 C. of chopped onion. Cook until soft, about 8-10 minutes. Add 3-4 cloves of minced garlic, 1 tsp of fennel seeds and 1/2 tsp of red pepper flakes. For that added boost, add 2 anchovies or a TBSP of fish sauce. Cook 1-2 minutes

2) Add 4 C of really good seafood stock. I use lobster broth and add shrimp shells to amp up the flavor. Add a 28oz can of San Marzano whole, peeled tomatoes. and 1 1/2 C. white wine (I use Sauvignon Blanc). and a little salt and pepper to taste. Bring to boil and lower heat to barely simmer uncovered for 30 minutes to concentrate the broth.

3) Add about 3 - 3 1/2 pounds of seafood, mixed. I like haddock, squid and shrimp here. Mussels and clams add a little fun to the eating so about 2 dozen of those. Add the fish first then the items that need a little less cooking next. Bring to a simmer, cover and then cook for about 8-10 minutes. You can add an optional liquor here like Pernod, Ouzo, Sambuca but I think the fennel is enough licorice for my tastes. Throw out any shellfish that hasn’t opened.

Eat.Drink.Savor.

Shrimp Gumbo

I often repeat myself but Southern cuisine is the epitome of comfort food. It calls to me! I love soups, stews and chowder especially during cold weather. I have a base recipe I use from Paula Deen and play off of it. Here it is:

1) Saute (with a little oil) 1 C. of okra, chopped over medium heat for 5 minutes. The key is that you don’t want slimy okra in your gumbo. Set the okra aside.

2) In a large saucepan, you will make a roux, 3/3 TBSP of butter to flour. Melt the butter over low to medium heat. Slowly sprinkle in the flour and whisk. You will cook this until it is a light brown and has a pleasant nutty aroma. Make sure you constantly stir or it will burn.

3) To the pan, add 1 onion (your choice) chopped, 1 bell pepper (your choice of color) chopped, 2 cloves of garlic chopped and cook for a few minutes.

4) Now add high quality broth/stock, 4 C. I use lobster or shrimp but you can use chicken. Add 1/4 lb of precooked smoked sausage sliced, 1 tsp of Cajun/cayenne seasoning and a little salt and pepper for taste. Bring to a boil, then lower heat to a slight simmer, cover and cook for about 20 minutes.

5) Add 1 lb of large shrimp, either 16/20 or 21/25 in the pot and cook for 5 minutes until shrimp turns opaque. Serve over white rice. This recipe serves about 4-6.

Nosh Options: You can cook that roux longer but you have to be very careful. If you want a thinner/thicker end product, play with the ratio of butter to flour , either 2/2 or 4/4. I like some color in my food so I would add 3 different colors of pepper but keep the same amount to equal 1 pepper. Andouille or some other cajun sausage is recommended to keep it authentic but in a pinch use smoked kielbasa or chorizo which are already cooked. Add Old Bay or something else with a little kick for the spice.

Eat.Drink.Savor.

Chicken Stock

As you cook more and more, you’ll realize how much stock is needed in your various recipes. Stock seems to be the glue that binds a lot of things together. The other thing you learn is that if your stock isn’t good, your soup or chowder or stew won’t be either. I like to make my stock in batches when I collect enough chicken parts and carcasses in the freezer. Often I will mix turkey and duck parts in to add a bit of complexity to the stock. Depending on my schedule, I will use the Crockpot to make stock vs. the stockpot. There are several ways to make stock and I am of the belief that whatever way works for you, run with it.

1) Chicken parts/carcasses. I will let them defrost in the fridge and will take the cleaver out to chop up the carcasses a bit. The more surface area exposed the better. Depending on time, I may roast all the bones and parts in a 400 degree oven for 35 minutes, then make the stock. In this recipe, we omit this step. Put all your parts in the pot. Add water and enough to cover the chicken bones and parts. Bring to a low simmer. You will start to notice nasty looking foam. Skim that off or it will remain in your stock. I don’t like it in my stock and it detracts from the flavor and it will cloud your stock.

2) Once the foam has been removed and any new foam creation subsides, add 1 whole onion cut into wedges (you can leave the skin on), 2 celery stalks, sliced, 2 peeled and sliced carrots, 1 TBSP peppercorns (cracked if possible), a pinch of salt and a bay leaf. Simmer for a minimum of 1 hour, uncovered. I like to let it go for many hours but it depends on your schedule.

3) If the stock seems weak, let it simmer for longer. Taste as you go. I don’t overseason the stock with salt as I am not sure which recipe it will go into. You can concentrate it by turning up the heat a bit and evaporating more of the liquid. One of my techniques is that I’ll make a double stock. I’ll make a concentrated stock that will be the base for a new stock using this recipe.

4) Once the stock has been strained, any fat removed and cooled a bit, store in fridge for a few weeks or put it in the freezer. Should last several months. I use it so much I don’t worry about spoilage.

Nosh Options: 1) A friend of mine turned me onto using a Crockpot overnight. Put in all the ingredients, after foam stage, into the Crockpot and cook on Low for 8-12 hours. Works really well. 2) Duck is richer and fattier but will add a layer of flavor to your stock. Just remember that duck has a lot of fat and you remove it from the stock. 3) Add more herbs to the stock like a few sprigs of thyme or sage for added flavor. Just be careful with any strong aromatic herbs as a little goes a long way.

Eat.Drink.Savor.